What kind of air compressor would I need to keep a constant 800 psi in a tank?

If I had an air tank of any size, what size (horsepower-wise) gas air compressor would I need to keep a constant 800 psi in a tank PLEASE HELP thanks!
I forgot I need to know the scfm of the air compressor in order to keep at least 800 psi in a tank that holds up to 1500 psi. I NEED THIS PLEASE thanks!

that much air pressure is very dangerous,you could get hurt bad,be careful please.

Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

Ask a Question:
“What are the keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?”

 

Answer:
Key #1: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

 

“What is the key to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?”   The best reply would have to be — Preventive Maintenance.

 

WHAT IS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE?
According to “Wikipedia”: Preventive maintenance (PM) has the following meanings:

 

“The care and servicing by personnel for the purpose of maintaining equipment and facilities in
satisfactory operating condition by providing for systematic inspection, detection, and correction of incipient failures either before they occur or before they develop into major defects.
Maintenance, including tests, measurements, adjustments, and parts replacement, performed specifically to prevent faults from occurring.”

 

*Source: from Federal Standard 1037C and from MIL-STD-188 and from the Department of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms

 

Preventive maintenance activities include partial or complete overhauls at specified periods, oil changes, lubrication and so on. In addition, workers can record equipment information and deterioration so they know to replace or repair worn parts before they cause system failure.

 

The ideal preventive maintenance program would prevent all equipment failure before it occurs.

 

BENEFITS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
-Improves system reliability and helps keep equipment working and/or extend the life of the equipment.
-Decreases system downtime and actively helps prevent unbudgeted maintenance expenses from cropping up.
-Decreases the cost of having to replace equipment as often.
-Records operational data that can help you troubleshoot an emerging problem (called “Data Trending”)
Data trending is the recording of basic operation parameters including pressures, temperatures, and electrical data.  For example, a slowly increasing temperature indicates a variety of maintenance requirements including cooler core cleaning, overloading of system and possible mechanical problems. Another example might include slowly decreasing pressure, indicating increased system flow requirements, reduced compressor performance or increased system leakage. Make sure someone is looking at this data on a regular basis. If the data is never reviewed then the benefit is lost.

 

THE VALUE OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
To determine how valuable regular air compressor PM is to you and your business… you need to know what your “down-time” is worth.  In some operations, down-time can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars an hour.
There are many misconceptions about preventive maintenance…one being that it costs too much.
This line of thinking says regularly scheduled downtime for maintenance costs more than operating the equipment until repair is absolutely necessary…or until the equipment breaks. This may be true for some components, but don’t forget to consider the long-term benefits and savings associated with preventive maintenance that have been previously mentioned.

 

If regular Preventive Maintenance can help reduce unexpected downtime that results in loss of production, time and materials or the ruining of an expensive plant process–then it is well worth the investment. Not to mention that unscheduled shut-downs can be extended if the correct equipment parts or repair technicians are not readily available.

 

“How effective is your PM program?”
The answer is: “If your PM program isn’t finding problems, it isn’t effective.”

 

Key #2:  CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE
Corrective maintenance, usually called “repair”, is conducted to get equipment working again
or fix any problems found during Preventive Maintenance.

 

The primary goal of maintenance is to avoid or reduce the consequences of failure of your compressed air equipment. PM is designed to preserve and restore equipment reliability by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

 

Key #3:  ASSESSING YOUR EQUIPMENT: When to maintain and when to replace.

 

Here are several factors to consider when assessing your compressed air equipment:
-How critical is your compressed air equipment? If equipment fails, what is the impact on production or safety.
-What is the age & history of your equipment.
Equipment histories will prove that most failures occur during infancy (newly installed or recently overhauled) and old-age (self-explanatory).
How many times has this equipment failed in the past?
-How much do you trust this equipment to perform as designed when scheduled to run?
-Do you need newer technology on your equipment?

 

Assessing the answers to these questions will help you determine when your older equipment needs fixing or replacing.  Preventive Maintenance will help your equipment last longer, run better, and save you loads of money in the long haul.

 

Key #4:  KNOWING YOUR EQUIPMENT WHAT IT NEEDS:
-Every piece of compressed air equipment should come with a set of MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS and some type of operations& parts manual.  Your operators should review the equipment information and keep it handy for future reference.  If you purchased used equipment and don’t have the manuals, contact your equipment distributor for a copy.
- Follow the maintenance guidelines for your equipment.

 

BASIC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST FOR
RECIPROCATING (PISTON) AIR COMPRESSORS:

 

Before performing any maintenance function, switch main disconnect switch to “off” position to assure no power is entering unit. “Lock Out” or “Tag Out” all sources of power. Be sure all air pressure in unit is relieved. Failure to do this may result in injury or equipment damage.

 

DAILY MAINTENANCE

 

1. Check oil level of both compressor and engine if so equipped. Add quality air compressor lubricant as required.
2. Drain moisture from tank by opening tank drain valve located in bottom of tank. Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG.
3. Stop, Look & Listen for any unusual noise, failure to compress, overheating, vibrations or belt slippage and correct before damage of a serious nature develops.
4. Turn off compressor at the end of each day’s operation. Turn off power supply.

 

WEEKLY MAINTENANCE
1. Clean dust and foreign matter from cylinder head, motor, fan blade, air lines, intercooler and tank.
2. Remove and clean intake air filters
WARNING
Do not exceed 15 PSIG nozzle pressure when cleaning element parts with compressed air. Do not direct compressed air against human skin. Serious injury could result. Never wash elements in fuel oil, gasoline or flammable solvent.

 

3. Check V-belts for tightness. The V-belts must be tight enough to transmit the necessary power to the
compressor. Adjust the V-belts as follows:
a. Remove bolts and guard to access compressor drive.
b. Loosen mounting hardware which secures motor to base. Slide motor within slots of base plate to desired position.
c. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for correct belt tension. Apply pressure with belt tension checker to one belt at midpoint span. Make further adjustments if necessary.
d. Check the alignment of pulleys. Adjust if necessary.
e. Tighten mounting hardware to secure motor on base.
f. Re-install guard and secure with bolts.

 

WARNING
Never operate unit without belt guard in place. Removal will expose rotating parts which can cause injury or equipment damage.

 

EVERY 90 DAYS OR 500 HOURS MAINTENANCE
1. Change crankcase oil. Use type and grade oil as specified.
2. Check entire system for air leakage around fittings, connections, and gaskets, using an ultrasonic leak detector or using soap solution and brush.
3. Tighten nuts and cap-screws as required.
4. Check and clean compressor valves, replace gasket valve asssembly when worn or damaged.

 

CAUTION
Valves must be reinstalled in original position. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are serviced.

 

5. Pull ring on all pressure relief valves to assure proper operation.

 

GENERAL MAINTENANCE NOTES:

 

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: The pressure relief valve is an automatic pop valve. Each valve is properly adjusted for the maximum pressure permitted by tank specifications and working pressure of the unit on which it is installed. If it should pop, it will be necessary to drain all the air out of the tank in order to reseat properly. Do not readjust.

 

TANK DRAIN VALVE: Drain valve is located at bottom of tank. Open drain valve daily to drain condensation.
Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG. The automatic tank drain equipped compressor requires draining manually once a week.

 

PRESSURE SWITCH: The pressure switch is automatic and will start compressor at low pressure and stop when the maximum pressure is reached. It is adjusted to start and stop compressor at the proper pressure for the unit on which it is installed. Do not readjust.

 

BELTS: Drive belts must be kept tight enough to prevent slipping. If belts slip or squeak, see V-belt maintenance in preceding section.

 

CAUTION
If belts are too tight, overload will be put on motor and motor bearings.

 

COMPRESSOR VALVES: If compressor fails to pump air or seems slow in filling up tank, disconnect unit from power source, drain air tank, and remove valves and clean thoroughly, using compressed air and a soft wire brush.
After cleaning exceptional care must be taken that all parts are replaced in exactly the same position and all joints must be tight or the compressor will not function properly.
When all valves are replaced, perform a timed pump-up test and check to see that it meets factory specifications.
Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are removed from pump.

 

 
Bottom Line:  One of the main keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system has been and still is “Preventive Maintenance.”

Tommy McGuire
http://www.articlesbase.com/business-articles/keys-to-maintaining-an-efficient-compressed-air-system-747908.html

Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

Ask a Question:
“What are the keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?”

 

Answer:
Key #1: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

 

“What is the key to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?”   The best reply would have to be — Preventive Maintenance.

 

WHAT IS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE?
According to “Wikipedia”: Preventive maintenance (PM) has the following meanings:

 

“The care and servicing by personnel for the purpose of maintaining equipment and facilities in
satisfactory operating condition by providing for systematic inspection, detection, and correction of incipient failures either before they occur or before they develop into major defects.
Maintenance, including tests, measurements, adjustments, and parts replacement, performed specifically to prevent faults from occurring.”

 

*Source: from Federal Standard 1037C and from MIL-STD-188 and from the Department of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms

 

Preventive maintenance activities include partial or complete overhauls at specified periods, oil changes, lubrication and so on. In addition, workers can record equipment information and deterioration so they know to replace or repair worn parts before they cause system failure.

 

The ideal preventive maintenance program would prevent all equipment failure before it occurs.

 

BENEFITS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
-Improves system reliability and helps keep equipment working and/or extend the life of the equipment.
-Decreases system downtime and actively helps prevent unbudgeted maintenance expenses from cropping up.
-Decreases the cost of having to replace equipment as often.
-Records operational data that can help you troubleshoot an emerging problem (called “Data Trending”)
Data trending is the recording of basic operation parameters including pressures, temperatures, and electrical data.  For example, a slowly increasing temperature indicates a variety of maintenance requirements including cooler core cleaning, overloading of system and possible mechanical problems. Another example might include slowly decreasing pressure, indicating increased system flow requirements, reduced compressor performance or increased system leakage. Make sure someone is looking at this data on a regular basis. If the data is never reviewed then the benefit is lost.

 

THE VALUE OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
To determine how valuable regular air compressor PM is to you and your business… you need to know what your “down-time” is worth.  In some operations, down-time can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars an hour.
There are many misconceptions about preventive maintenance…one being that it costs too much.
This line of thinking says regularly scheduled downtime for maintenance costs more than operating the equipment until repair is absolutely necessary…or until the equipment breaks. This may be true for some components, but don’t forget to consider the long-term benefits and savings associated with preventive maintenance that have been previously mentioned.

 

If regular Preventive Maintenance can help reduce unexpected downtime that results in loss of production, time and materials or the ruining of an expensive plant process–then it is well worth the investment. Not to mention that unscheduled shut-downs can be extended if the correct equipment parts or repair technicians are not readily available.

 

“How effective is your PM program?”
The answer is: “If your PM program isn’t finding problems, it isn’t effective.”

 

Key #2:  CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE
Corrective maintenance, usually called “repair”, is conducted to get equipment working again
or fix any problems found during Preventive Maintenance.

 

The primary goal of maintenance is to avoid or reduce the consequences of failure of your compressed air equipment. PM is designed to preserve and restore equipment reliability by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

 

Key #3:  ASSESSING YOUR EQUIPMENT: When to maintain and when to replace.

 

Here are several factors to consider when assessing your compressed air equipment:
-How critical is your compressed air equipment? If equipment fails, what is the impact on production or safety.
-What is the age & history of your equipment.
Equipment histories will prove that most failures occur during infancy (newly installed or recently overhauled) and old-age (self-explanatory).
How many times has this equipment failed in the past?
-How much do you trust this equipment to perform as designed when scheduled to run?
-Do you need newer technology on your equipment?

 

Assessing the answers to these questions will help you determine when your older equipment needs fixing or replacing.  Preventive Maintenance will help your equipment last longer, run better, and save you loads of money in the long haul.

 

Key #4:  KNOWING YOUR EQUIPMENT WHAT IT NEEDS:
-Every piece of compressed air equipment should come with a set of MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS and some type of operations& parts manual.  Your operators should review the equipment information and keep it handy for future reference.  If you purchased used equipment and don’t have the manuals, contact your equipment distributor for a copy.
- Follow the maintenance guidelines for your equipment.

 

BASIC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST FOR
RECIPROCATING (PISTON) air compressorS:

 

Before performing any maintenance function, switch main disconnect switch to “off” position to assure no power is entering unit. “Lock Out” or “Tag Out” all sources of power. Be sure all air pressure in unit is relieved. Failure to do this may result in injury or equipment damage.

 

DAILY MAINTENANCE

 

1. Check oil level of both compressor and engine if so equipped. Add quality air compressor lubricant as required.
2. Drain moisture from tank by opening tank drain valve located in bottom of tank. Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG.
3. Stop, Look & Listen for any unusual noise, failure to compress, overheating, vibrations or belt slippage and correct before damage of a serious nature develops.
4. Turn off compressor at the end of each day’s operation. Turn off power supply.

 

WEEKLY MAINTENANCE
1. Clean dust and foreign matter from cylinder head, motor, fan blade, air lines, intercooler and tank.
2. Remove and clean intake air filters
WARNING
Do not exceed 15 PSIG nozzle pressure when cleaning element parts with compressed air. Do not direct compressed air against human skin. Serious injury could result. Never wash elements in fuel oil, gasoline or flammable solvent.

 

3. Check V-belts for tightness. The V-belts must be tight enough to transmit the necessary power to the
compressor. Adjust the V-belts as follows:
a. Remove bolts and guard to access compressor drive.
b. Loosen mounting hardware which secures motor to base. Slide motor within slots of base plate to desired position.
c. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for correct belt tension. Apply pressure with belt tension checker to one belt at midpoint span. Make further adjustments if necessary.
d. Check the alignment of pulleys. Adjust if necessary.
e. Tighten mounting hardware to secure motor on base.
f. Re-install guard and secure with bolts.

 

WARNING
Never operate unit without belt guard in place. Removal will expose rotating parts which can cause injury or equipment damage.

 

EVERY 90 DAYS OR 500 HOURS MAINTENANCE
1. Change crankcase oil. Use type and grade oil as specified.
2. Check entire system for air leakage around fittings, connections, and gaskets, using an ultrasonic leak detector or using soap solution and brush.
3. Tighten nuts and cap-screws as required.
4. Check and clean compressor valves, replace gasket valve asssembly when worn or damaged.

 

CAUTION
Valves must be reinstalled in original position. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are serviced.

 

5. Pull ring on all pressure relief valves to assure proper operation.

 

GENERAL MAINTENANCE NOTES:

 

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: The pressure relief valve is an automatic pop valve. Each valve is properly adjusted for the maximum pressure permitted by tank specifications and working pressure of the unit on which it is installed. If it should pop, it will be necessary to drain all the air out of the tank in order to reseat properly. Do not readjust.

 

TANK DRAIN VALVE: Drain valve is located at bottom of tank. Open drain valve daily to drain condensation.
Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG. The automatic tank drain equipped compressor requires draining manually once a week.

 

PRESSURE SWITCH: The pressure switch is automatic and will start compressor at low pressure and stop when the maximum pressure is reached. It is adjusted to start and stop compressor at the proper pressure for the unit on which it is installed. Do not readjust.

 

BELTS: Drive belts must be kept tight enough to prevent slipping. If belts slip or squeak, see V-belt maintenance in preceding section.

 

CAUTION
If belts are too tight, overload will be put on motor and motor bearings.

 

COMPRESSOR VALVES: If compressor fails to pump air or seems slow in filling up tank, disconnect unit from power source, drain air tank, and remove valves and clean thoroughly, using compressed air and a soft wire brush.
After cleaning exceptional care must be taken that all parts are replaced in exactly the same position and all joints must be tight or the compressor will not function properly.
When all valves are replaced, perform a timed pump-up test and check to see that it meets factory specifications.
Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are removed from pump.

 

 
Bottom Line:  One of the main keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system has been and still is “Preventive Maintenance.”

Tommy McGuire
http://www.articlesbase.com/business-articles/keys-to-maintaining-an-efficient-compressed-air-system-747908.html

Air compressor?

I had a fender bender two years ago, and ever since, the air conditioner has made a lot of noise. It continued to work until a couple weeks ago. There is not as much air coming out of the vents, and it’s not cooling properly. If I turn on recirculate, the air is very warm coming out.

Do you think the compressor is out? How much would that cost to replace?

You may have a problem with your compressor however if you had an accident I would be very care-full with checking for a leak in the system. You may have a small leak in the condenser. Good Luck; Rick.

Automotive Air Conditioners

It’s August, the car is jammed with kids and luggage, and you’re finally on your way to the cottage. Suddenly you realize that your car’s air conditioning system is on the fritz, and your family vacation really starts to heat up.

Automotive air conditioning systems were first introduced in 1940 to address customer demands for relief from unbearable heat. These systems use refrigerant to cool the air and remove the heat from the car’s passenger compartment. Air conditioning also cleans the air that enters the car, and removes excess moisture as it dehumidifies the air.

There are three basic components to any automotive air conditioner system:

1. Compressor–Considered the heart of the air conditioning system, the compressor transfers and compresses refrigerant gas to let the heat out of the car.

2. Condenser–removes heat from the refrigerant and cools down the high-pressure gasses.

3. Evaporator–Acts as the heater core of the air conditioning system. The evaporator removes the heat from inside the car. The refrigerant then condenses the air and transforms it into water.

Cars manufactured in 1995 or later have been equipped with R-134A air conditioning system. These ozone-friendly units do not contain CFCs, are nontoxic and nonflammable.

Prior to 1995, automotive air conditioners came with R-12 refrigerant, most commonly Freon. During that time, a car owner experiencing air conditioner problems needed only to visit a local retailer to purchase a recharge kit. With a can of Freon and basic knowledge, the average driver could easily repair his or her own air conditioning system. When studies confirmed that R-12 systems were contributing to the damaged ozone layer, many countries including the United States banned their manufacture.

Common Problems
The most common complaint about automotive air conditioners, particularly R-134 systems, is the odor that permeates from the A/C vents. Mechanics and car manufacturers have concluded that accumulated bacteria and fungus in the evaporator core likely cause the odor. Because the air conditioning system is loaded with moisture, it attracts microbes. The solution offered by automakers is to make the blower motor effective in drying out the evaporator after the A/C system is turned off. General Motors introduced this breakthrough, called Electronic Evaporator Dryer.

This solution might offer relief to some car owners, but not to all. Installing this system can cost hundred of dollars. As a result, many car owners have resorted to finding alternative methods of fighting the odor. Using antibacterial chemicals such as Lysol can be an effective short-term solution. Keeping a can of Lysol handy can go along way for your odorous air problem. Just spay the Lysol inside the car, and in the air intake once a week, for temporary relief from the problem. Another way to help eliminate the odor is to shut off the A/C unit at least one mile before reaching your destination. This will allow enough time for the evaporator to dry out, essentially doing away with the moisture and microbes that cause odor. This can be the easiest and least expensive method in combating the issue.

Caring For Your A/C System

* To keep working efficiently, your automotive air conditioner must be recharged from time to time, depending on how often it is are used. Consult your mechanic or your owner’s manual for information about system recharges.

* Call your mechanic if you see water leaking from the A/C system’s condenser, as this can affect the refrigerant. Have the system repaired before refilling it.

* Replacing the filter once every three months will also help to maintain the performance of your automotive air conditioning system. This is where dust builds up when the A/C system is running.

* Setting the gauge at one specific temperature will also help it perform well. If you constantly switch from one temperature to another, your system will have trouble adjusting accordingly.

Automotive air conditioners can be a driver’s best friend, whether you’re traveling across town or from coast to coast. Keep your A/C unit well maintained, and keep your cool on the road.

Charles Jackson
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/automotive-air-conditioners-92142.html

Important Car Air Conditioner Parts

The air conditioner has become a necessity to keep away the scorching heat. Even in case of traveling you need conditioned and healthy air to drive safely and comfortably. With an onset of automobile air conditioner in 1940, things have gone an automatic change.

The applications of the computerized automatic temperature control and improvements to the overall durability have ushered in a new era in the fields of automobile air conditioning system.

An automobile air conditioner consists of several parts which are of utmost importance to you while you opt for choosing an air conditioner. Primarily three major types of components are there in an automobile air conditioner.

There are also several other components: Pressure Regulating Devices, Orifice Tube, Thermal Expansion Valve, Receiver drier and accumulator. But as a learning guide, it is enough to know these three only in detail.

Compressor

Commonly known as the heart of the air conditioning system, a compressor, a belt driven pump, is responsible for compressing and transferring refrigerant gas. Consisting of a high pressure side and a low pressure side, which are respectively known as discharge and suction points, an automobile air conditioner intakes the refrigerant gas directly from the evaporator through the low pressure side or the suction point. This sucking process can also be done by the help of an accumulator.

After the gas is taken inside, it is then compressed therein; it outlets the compressed gas to the condenser through the discharge point. Inside the condenser the car-heat can be absorbed.

Condenser

Inside the condenser the heat transformation of temperature generally occurs. Like the radiator in a car a condenser is supposed to radiate heat. It is placed normally in front of the radiator, though its location may differ due to the aerodynamic improvements to the body of a vehicle. It should have a good air flow while conditioning the air from inside. Then the compressed gasses are cooled off and come out from the bottom as a high pressure liquid.

Evaporator

Serving as a heat absorption component, an evaporator which is commonly fixed under the passenger side dash of a car ends up removing heat from inside of your car and dehumidifying it properly. The ideal temperature of the evaporator is set at 32 Fahrenheit or 0 Celsius. Temperature regulating device is there all the time to keep the evaporator from freezing, since a frozen evaporator can not soak up heat and moisture. Pressure regulator is also there to keep the evaporator pressure low.

As a low pressure liquid the refrigerant enters the evaporator and begins to boil therein. It absorbs a large amount of heat and passes that heat to the outside of the car.

anonymous
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/important-car-air-conditioner-parts-99783.html

Does anyone think a harbor freight air compressor is good or stay away?

I am looking at buying a air compressor and harbor freight is the cheapest and the best it seams they sale this brand called central pneumatic. The air compressor is 21 gallons and is a 3hp motor. It also has a 7 scfm @ 40 and a 4.9 @ 90 and a 4.3 @ 115 is this a good air compressor from harbor freight. Or should i stay away from the brand.

This is a very good product. I have many tools by this brand and never had any problems at all. I also have an air compressor and it works great. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

About Oil Less Air Compressors

Portable air compressors vary by size and power level, and there are a few different models available from which to choose depending on the tools you will use. Be sure to check the power requirements of your tools to ensure that you purchase a model that has sufficient power to run your strongest tool. Regardless of the compressor you purchase, it is always very important to follow the safety precautions including safety goggles, protective clothing and proper footwear.

Portable rotary screw compressors are one of the more commonly used compressors. They range from 65 to 1,600 cubic feet per minute, with pressure ratings ranging from 100 to 350 PSI. As discussed above, the compressor you need depends on your tools and the required power level. Contractors often use 185 CFM because they are able to power two tools simultaneously. One benefit to this compressor is its suitability for both the lighter and heavy duty jobs.

The truck mounted compressor is an oil less air compressor and can be mounted in the bed or under the hood of a truck. These compressors are excellent space savers, a great advantage for those with limited space available. Their power source is from the engine of the truck which allows them to be a low-maintenance compressor. However, one disadvantage is that the truck must be running to provide the compressor the power it needs.

Finally, the deck mounted compressor is mounted in the bed of the truck but can be removed and left at the job site. This compressor does not rely on the truck for power since it has its own engine. However, it does require fuel to power the engine, unlike the truck mounted compressor which runs from the truck. The engine also requires regular maintenance.

As you see, the power source of compressors varies with some powered electronically and others requiring fuel. With either type, though, the air is stored in the holding tank and the tools are to be attached with a hose. A valve regulates the pressure which is measured by a gauge.

Quincy and Husky are two of the major brands of compressors. Quincy’s rotary screw compressors are very durable, reliable and quiet with its power level varying from 10 to 350 horsepower. Quincy’s available air compressors range in size from the smaller tank models to the larger, stationary styles.

Husky’s line of small air compressors are generally made for home and personal use. The 1.75 gallon tank compressor has 135 PSI power has an oil free pump for easy maintenance and is easy to transport with its telescope handle. This model of Husky compressors is good for running tools such as nailing guns, for example, and is also useful for insulation purposes. Husky’s four gallon model has 125 PSI power and is a good choice for running small tools, spraying and even inflating tires and other recreational items. The four gallon model is a compressor for homeowners.

Kurt J Schefken
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/about-oil-less-air-compressors-112923.html

Buy Oil Less Air Compressors

The most often used air compressors are portable rotary screw compressors. You can put the pressure settings from 100-350 PSI. You can find them ranging 65-1600 cubic feet per minute. What you need depends on the tools you will be using. A pro will usually use something with 185 CFM, which can get the job done while powering more than one tool at a time.

You can mount a truck compressor in the bed or underneath the hood of your truck. This is great to save some space and they use your truck’s engine for power, so they are easy to maintain. You must have your truck running to power the compressor, which can be a deterrent.

You can get a compressor that is mounted in your truck bed called a deck mounted compressor. Since these have their own engines then won’t need you to power your truck for them to work. They need engine maintenance and fuel as well since they aren’t powered by your truck.

Other compressors run off electricity, while others use gas. In both kinds the air is in the holding tank and the tools are attached by a hose. There are gauges on the compressor that will show the pressure, which is valve regulated.

You can look at a Quincy air compressor which are very good. They offer a rotary screw compressor, which has 10-350 horsepower. They make quality machines that will last for a while, they have larger models and smaller ones.

A Husky brand air compressor is great for use in your home. The tank has 135 PSI and holds 1.75 gallons. You can run all kinds of tools on it and are so easy to carry around with the telescope handle. You can get the oil free pump to maintain it well.

If you choose the Husky air compressor that holds 4 gallons you will be getting upt 125 PSI and is great for small jobs around the house.

Ray J. Walberg
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/buy-oil-less-air-compressors-128896.html

Air Compressors Need Clean Air Too!

The air we breathe everyday is full of contamination. It has water vapor and airborne particulates that we inhale into our lungs. The vast majority is not harmful and we barely notice that its even there. However, to your air compressor these harmless contaminants can become quite harmful due to the compression process. During the compression process an air compressor concentrates natural contaminants in the air and this process makes them harmful to air compressors and its components. Overtime they begin to erode your components, valves and be passed on to your air tools. Lets look at water condensation. Water vapor is a normal part of the air we breathe, especially if you live in a humid climate. It is harmless at normal atmospheric pressures. However when the pressure is raised in the compression process, hot air is pushed through hoses and fittings and when it contacts the cooler air condensation forms. Water can be very damaging to your air compressor and air tools over time and removing it is a priority. Water is not the only liquid that can damage your system. Even, lubrication can cause damage if excessive amounts are in your air system. Older air compressors especially have this problem. As they get older and parts begin to wear out, lubricating oils leak into the compressed air can damage the unit. Don’t forget solids too. Rust, dirt and metal are all present and will attack your compressed air system. The results of air contamination are reduced efficiency and increased maintenance costs on both your air compressor and air tools. There are several ways to attack these problems and protect your air compressor.

Aftercoolers

Aftercoolers will cool the air temperature as it is discharged from the compressor. As a general rule for every 20 degrees F cooled, approximately half of the moisture is condensed. Aftercoolers bring discharge air temperature down from 200 – 400 degrees F to within 20 -50 degrees of the ambient air temperature. This process will cause most of the moisture to condense into a liquid state. Then the water can be removed from the system before it can cause any damage. An aftercooler can generally remove around 60% of the moisture from the air.

Dryers

Dryers also remove moisture from the air compressor system by reducing temperature. Dryers generally remove around 30% of the moisture. This is in addition to the 60% the aftercooler removed. This is why you commonly see an aftercooler and a dryer both hooked up to an air compressor to produce the driest air possible.

Coalescing Filters

Now that you are removing most of the water vapor from your air compressor using a aftercooler/dryer combination, that still leaves solid particulates in your system. These are commonly rust, metal and dirt. Lets face it, an auto shop is not the cleanest environment! Filters can be added to your shop air compressor to remove these particles. Filters do not condense water vapor and are only useful for solid particles. They are not a replacement for an aftercooler or dryer.

In order to get the cleanest air possible from your air compressor, I would recommend using all three options on your shop air system. They will pay for themselves in a longer life for your air compressor, better performance and efficiency for your air tools and longer air tool life.

Cooper Miller
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