According to the Environmental Protection Agency, geothermal systems are the most energy efficient, cost-effective and environmentally clean heating/cooling systems available. A 1,500 square foot home in Colorado that uses a geothermal heat pump, averages energy costs of $1 a day. This includes all heating, cooling and hot water needs!

Geothermal heat pump systems can reduce a building’s energy consumption by 25% to 75%, as compared with conventional heating systems. Not only do they reduce energy consumption, but GHPs significantly lesson corresponding emissions. Emissions can be reduced up 44-72%, as compared with standard air-source heat pumps and air conditioning equipment. If you want to upgrade your space conditioning sources or are building a new home, these systems are green, clean and lean. In the long run they will benefit your pocket-book and the environment.

The simplest description of the geoexchange process is the movement of heat from the earth (or a groundwater source) into the home in the winter, and the discharging of heat back into the ground in the summer. Much of the country experiences extreme seasonal temperatures. But, did you know that just a few feet below the earth’s surface, the ground remains a relatively constant temperature? Ground temperatures range from 45 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. As in a cave, the ground temperature is warmer than the ambient air in the winter and cooler than that air in the summer. Geoexchange systems take advantage of this natural phenomenon.

GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMPS: THE NUTS AND BOLTS OF HEAT EXCHANGE

The geothermal system includes these principal components:

- Earth Connection

Using the earth as a heat source and sink, a series of pipes is buried under ground, near the house. A fluid (water or a mixture of water and antifreeze) is circulated through these pipes. If the surrounding air is cooler than the soil, the pipes will absorb heat and if the air is warmer, they will sink heat back into the soil.

- Geothermal Heat Pump

For the actual heating of your home, a geothermal heat pump is installed. This heat pump removes heat from the fluid in the pipes, concentrates it, and then transfers it to the building. The process is reversed for cooling.

- Heat Distribution

Generally, conventional ductwork is used to distribute heated or cooled air from the pump into and throughout the building.

THE “DESUPERHEATER”: REDUCE YOUR HOT WATER COSTS BY HALF!

Geothermal heat pumps can be equipped with a “desuperheater. Yes, it sounds like a super hero and in some ways, it is. This device will heat your household water. The heat extracted from the house by your GHP during the summer, is then transferred from the GHP’s compressor into the house’s hot water tank. Winter water heating costs can be reduced by half with use of the “desuperheater”. HOT STUFF!

SHORT TERM COSTS VS LONGTERM SAVINGS

On average, a geothermal heat pump system costs about $2500 per ton of capacity. This would translate to roughly $7500 for a typical residential sized home. Other standard systems with air conditioning units usually go for about $4000. But, consider that with GHP’s high efficiency and much lower utility bills, your investment can be recouped in two to ten years. Financially, it is a golden ticket to strengthen the investment in your property. Not only in long term savings, but also in terms of increasing property value. A property that is equipped to heat/cool using geothermal is mostly self-sufficient, energy wise. There is real re-sale value, right there. Likewise, many geothermal systems can be financed with special loans from banks and other financial institutions. Get on board now, and invest in the investment that keeps on giving, naturally!

GEOTHERMAL IS SUPERIOR

DURABILITY

With fewer mechanical components that are all sheltered from the elements and possible vandalism, geothermal heat pumps are durable and highly reliable. Expect piping systems to come with 25-50 year warranties. The GHPs themselves last 20 years or more.

IMPROVED HUMIDITY CONTROL

GHPs are very effective in humid areas. GHPs improve humidity control while maintaining a 50% relative indoor humidity.

EFFICIENT AND QUIET

A two speed GHP system is so quiet. There are no tell-tale blasts of cold or hot air, as with other systems. Imagine, no A/C noise bothering the neighbors or buzzing the patio. With geothermal systems there are no outside condensing units, hence no constant hum, as with conventional air conditioners.

DESIGN IN MIND

Geothermal heat pump systems allow for design flexibility and can be installed in both new and retrofit situations. The hardware requires less space than conventional systems and so equipment rooms tend to be smaller. Imagine all the valuable home space freed up for other uses! The system also provides “zone” specific conditioning. Different parts of your home can be heated or cooled to different temperatures using GHPs.

There are so many advantages when you install a geothermal system in your home. First and foremost the immediate advantages will be for you, the consumer. Savings in utility costs will be from 20-70%! But, also consider what you will be doing for the environment with reduced emissions and reduced energy consumption. Every 100,000 homes built with geothermal heat pump systems reduce foreign oil consumption by 2.15 million barrels annually! What more do you need to know? An investment in a geothermal system for your home is undeniably wise for you, your future, the future of our planet and generations to come.

Andy Asbury
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/geothermal-heat-for-your-home-green-clean-and-lean-285106.html

Sooner or later, every homeowner and business owner has to face replacing their HVAC air condition and heating systems. The vast majority of people never plan for the time when their HVAC air condition and heating system reaches the end of the road. As well as being uncomfortable temperature-wise it also becomes uncomfortable financial-wise. They end up calling a contractor or two and getting the cheapest system quoted. Many ask for the cheapest system not taking into consideration the future power bills they will have to pay. A major financial publication had an article listing the major appliances and expenditures the average homeowner will face owning a home. They listed how much the homeowner needed to set aside to replace these things when the average life of the appliance (or roof) ended. The average life expectancy for HVAC air condition and heating systems, according to this article, came in at 13 years. This is a fair assessment from my experience in the field (my opinion is 15 years) plus you have to consider the technological leaps that systems can take in thirteen years especially in efficiency standards. Think about a 15 year old car and how efficient they were, plus how many people keep a car for fifteen years? The article gave a figure of thirty to forty dollars a month set a side would make replacing a system financially feasible for anyone. The range for saving $30.00 to $40.00 per month over thirteen years is $4,680.00 to $6,240.00. That also seems like a fair assessment for replacing an older system with a newer system. It all depends on what you replace in the retro-fit and what you replace it with. The homeowner above who didn’t plan could save that $30.00 to $40.00 per month in energy savings alone by purchasing the more efficient model (which costs more to install). The homeowner who saved the $40.00 per month could replace their entire system with a higher efficient model (duct work included) give or take a thousand bucks and save money on their power bills. Energy efficiency for the conscientious pays.

January of 2006 was the month and year the Department of Energy (DOE) raised the bar by amending the rules for air conditioning & heat pump equipment raising the SEER rating 30% from 10 SEER to 13 SEER. The same thing happened to furnaces in the nineties. Manufacturers have to sell furnaces that have an efficiency rating of at least 78%. Of course with the higher efficiency equipment comes a higher replacement cost for the homeowner/businessperson. After all, someone has to pay for all that research, development, plant retooling, government regulation, re-training technicians and everything involved with making the new hi-tech systems successful.

The new 13 SEER air conditioners forced homeowners, business people, and contractors alike to change the whole HVAC system. Before the new rules from DOE, contractors could sell you a new condenser and replace just the condenser. That won’t work any longer. A 13 SEER condenser won’t be 13 SEER if you leave the evaporator coil in place from the old 10 SEER system. It causes mechanical problems that will either cause the system to not work at all or lead to premature failure for the new condenser. If a 10 SEER condenser is condemned the indoor coil along with the outside condenser needs to be replaced. No longer will the contractor just be able to replace the condenser.

Looking a few years into the future, this same scenario will occur because of a different law (or protocol rather). In 2010 the production of the refrigerant R-22 will begin a phase out period. A good guess is probably more than 95 percent of homes (not sure about businesses but a good guess is more than 75 percent) use equipment that has R-22 in it. As of this writing (April 2006), refrigerant manufacturers are retooling their plants to begin producing the newer refrigerant (HFC R-410A) that is legal to produce (without production restriction as R-22) even after 2010. After 2010, the stocks of R-22 are going to dwindle which will cause the price to skyrocket. The cost of a pound of R-22 will most likely exceed the cost of the service call labor rate at the end of the phase out period. History proves this will happen. R-12, and other CFC’s, were phased out in the nineties. The price jumped to very high levels. How high? Some people were caught attempting to smuggle it across the border with Mexico because it was a lucrative, aside from going to federal prison, operation. It is a good time now, especially if your system is due for replacement, to consider replacing the old R-22 system with the newer R-410A systems that are currently available. Like the 13 SEER systems, the R-410A system will require replacing the evaporator coils. Additionally, the line-set (the copper pipes leading from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit) needs replacing. The oil used to lubricate the compressor of the R-22 system, which migrates throughout the whole system, does not mix with the oil used to lubricate the compressor of the R-410A system. The residual oil left in the line-set from the R-22 system can cause premature failure of the new R-410A compressor. These are the costs of government rules and regulations and they are based on the Montreal Protocol (Article 2F: Hydrochlorofluorocarbons) amended by a group of nations, including the U.S., in the early nineties.

Richard D. Ashworth
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-and-family-articles/changing-the-old-ac-system-factors-and-considerations-107631.html

An air conditioner works in the same way as a refrigerator. The portable evaporative air conditioners that we see in homes make use of water to cool the air. They are not so much use in an area with high humidity as the air they blow out is very humid. That is, a special refrigerant gas such as Freon is heated and then cooled through coils to give the cold air. With a fridge, the cold air is contained in an insulated box; air conditioners blow the cool air out into your room.

A compressor is used to compress the gas, making it become hot and high-pressured. As it runs through coils, the heat dissipates and the gas turns to liquid. The next step involves the liquid Freon running through an expansion valve so that it turns back into a cold gas. The Freon is mixed with a little oil that helps to lubricate the inside of the air-conditioner.

Many air-conditioners also use cooling towers to help save on the cost of air-conditioning. These cooling towers are generally found on the roof or at the back of buildings. Basically they are of mesh with water running through it to help cool off the gas.

The portable evaporative air conditioners that we see in homes make use of water to cool the air. Many air-conditioners also use cooling towers to help save on the cost of air-conditioning. These cooling towers are generally found on the roof or at the back of buildings. Basically they are of mesh with water running through it to help cool off the gas. They are not so much use in an area with high humidity as the air they blow out is very humid.

Melanie Click
http://www.articlesbase.com/tools-and-equipment-articles/how-air-conditioners-work-668527.html

The air compressor is an oiless 8 gallon 150 psi electric model
It easily powers an impact gun
has a regulator knob and two gauges.
The primer is the thickest of the liquids which I want to spray.

I got a HVLP Spray Gun
It has a 2.0 mm tip, All metal construction, and Brass Fan Nozzle with one quart dripless cup. Runs at 20 to 45 psi with 1/4 nps inlet. It has a Air Control, Spray Control, and Fluid Control for making adjustments.

Any advice is appreciated.

The HVLP is the way to go and I would keep the psi down to 30 or so to control the overspray. I also think that your 8 gallon tank is sufficient. It might work the compressor a little overtime because of the constaint drain of the sprayer, but for a one time deal I think will be fine.
I’d do it. Good luck.

The air compressor is an oiless 8 gallon 150 psi electric model
It easily powers an impact gun
has a regulator knob and two gauges.
The primer is the thickest of the liquids which I want to spray.

I got a HVLP Spray Gun
It has a 2.0 mm tip, All metal construction, and Brass Fan Nozzle with one quart dripless cup. Runs at 20 to 45 psi with 1/4 nps inlet. It has a Air Control, Spray Control, and Fluid Control for making adjustments.

Any advice is appreciated.

The HVLP is the way to go and I would keep the psi down to 30 or so to control the overspray. I also think that your 8 gallon tank is sufficient. It might work the compressor a little overtime because of the constaint drain of the sprayer, but for a one time deal I think will be fine.
I’d do it. Good luck.

Many people nowadays have cooling systems inside their homes to help combat against the scorching heat that summers may bring. The market is now filled with numerous brands and types of air conditioners that are affordable ranging from the window type, split type and the portable ones that are slowly gaining popularity in homes as well.

A portable unit may seem big and bulky at first glance since it is around 30 inches tall and weighs about 80 lbs. The great thing about it though is that it is a self-contained component that does not require any installation because it can stand by itself on the floor without the need for your wall or window to contain it. Most are also equipped with wheels for easy mobility.

One of the advantages that a portable air conditioner offers is that you don’t need to create a hole on your wall or block a window to accommodate the unit. You can easily transfer it from one room to another eliminating the need to install numerous window type air conditioners in several rooms. It can also help you save on electric bills if you will just be using it in a room instead of switching on the entire centralized system.

It just has a downside of costing more than your regular window type air conditioner. Also, although it has a similar cooling capacity as that with split type systems it can sometimes be noisy compared to the split type kind whose compressor is located outside. If noise really matters for you, look for portable air conditioners that make lesser amount of noise.

You may be wondering if a portable air conditioner is capable enough to cool big and large rooms. Actually, it all depends upon the model. You need to take a look at the cooling capacity of each unit and check the room size that it could productively cool.

Since air conditioners consume a lot of electricity, it would be wise to choose a unit that is energy efficient and has a lower electrical usage. Today the standard and acceptable energy efficiency ratio should be at least 10.

It may come as a shock to you but portable air conditioners are reasonably priced. Their prices have dropped considerably through the years and are not costly anymore. Of course, you can expect units with a higher cooling capacity to cost more. If you want a cooling system but don’t plan on investing in a centralized cooling setup, purchasing a portable air conditioner may be a good option.

Mary Lorainne
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/the-real-deal-on-portable-air-conditioners-111315.html

Many people nowadays have cooling systems inside their homes to help combat against the scorching heat that summers may bring. The market is now filled with numerous brands and types of air conditioners that are affordable ranging from the window type, split type and the portable ones that are slowly gaining popularity in homes as well.

A portable unit may seem big and bulky at first glance since it is around 30 inches tall and weighs about 80 lbs. The great thing about it though is that it is a self-contained component that does not require any installation because it can stand by itself on the floor without the need for your wall or window to contain it. Most are also equipped with wheels for easy mobility.

One of the advantages that a portable air conditioner offers is that you don’t need to create a hole on your wall or block a window to accommodate the unit. You can easily transfer it from one room to another eliminating the need to install numerous window type air conditioners in several rooms. It can also help you save on electric bills if you will just be using it in a room instead of switching on the entire centralized system.

It just has a downside of costing more than your regular window type air conditioner. Also, although it has a similar cooling capacity as that with split type systems it can sometimes be noisy compared to the split type kind whose compressor is located outside. If noise really matters for you, look for portable air conditioners that make lesser amount of noise.

You may be wondering if a portable air conditioner is capable enough to cool big and large rooms. Actually, it all depends upon the model. You need to take a look at the cooling capacity of each unit and check the room size that it could productively cool.

Since air conditioners consume a lot of electricity, it would be wise to choose a unit that is energy efficient and has a lower electrical usage. Today the standard and acceptable energy efficiency ratio should be at least 10.

It may come as a shock to you but portable air conditioners are reasonably priced. Their prices have dropped considerably through the years and are not costly anymore. Of course, you can expect units with a higher cooling capacity to cost more. If you want a cooling system but don’t plan on investing in a centralized cooling setup, purchasing a portable air conditioner may be a good option.

Mary Lorainne
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/the-real-deal-on-portable-air-conditioners-111315.html

Ask a Question:
“What are the keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?”

Answer:
Key #1: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

“What is the key to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?”   The best reply would have to be — Preventive Maintenance.

WHAT IS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE?
According to “Wikipedia”: Preventive maintenance (PM) has the following meanings:

“The care and servicing by personnel for the purpose of maintaining equipment and facilities in
satisfactory operating condition by providing for systematic inspection, detection, and correction of incipient failures either before they occur or before they develop into major defects.
Maintenance, including tests, measurements, adjustments, and parts replacement, performed specifically to prevent faults from occurring.”

*Source: from Federal Standard 1037C and from MIL-STD-188 and from the Department of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms

Preventive maintenance activities include partial or complete overhauls at specified periods, oil changes, lubrication and so on. In addition, workers can record equipment information and deterioration so they know to replace or repair worn parts before they cause system failure.

The ideal preventive maintenance program would prevent all equipment failure before it occurs.

BENEFITS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
-Improves system reliability and helps keep equipment working and/or extend the life of the equipment.
-Decreases system downtime and actively helps prevent unbudgeted maintenance expenses from cropping up.
-Decreases the cost of having to replace equipment as often.
-Records operational data that can help you troubleshoot an emerging problem (called “Data Trending”)
Data trending is the recording of basic operation parameters including pressures, temperatures, and electrical data.  For example, a slowly increasing temperature indicates a variety of maintenance requirements including cooler core cleaning, overloading of system and possible mechanical problems. Another example might include slowly decreasing pressure, indicating increased system flow requirements, reduced compressor performance or increased system leakage. Make sure someone is looking at this data on a regular basis. If the data is never reviewed then the benefit is lost.

THE VALUE OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
To determine how valuable regular air compressor PM is to you and your business… you need to know what your “down-time” is worth.  In some operations, down-time can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars an hour.
There are many misconceptions about preventive maintenance…one being that it costs too much.
This line of thinking says regularly scheduled downtime for maintenance costs more than operating the equipment until repair is absolutely necessary…or until the equipment breaks. This may be true for some components, but don’t forget to consider the long-term benefits and savings associated with preventive maintenance that have been previously mentioned.

If regular Preventive Maintenance can help reduce unexpected downtime that results in loss of production, time and materials or the ruining of an expensive plant process–then it is well worth the investment. Not to mention that unscheduled shut-downs can be extended if the correct equipment parts or repair technicians are not readily available.

“How effective is your PM program?”
The answer is: “If your PM program isn’t finding problems, it isn’t effective.”

Key #2:  CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE
Corrective maintenance, usually called “repair”, is conducted to get equipment working again
or fix any problems found during Preventive Maintenance.

The primary goal of maintenance is to avoid or reduce the consequences of failure of your compressed air equipment. PM is designed to preserve and restore equipment reliability by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

Key #3:  ASSESSING YOUR EQUIPMENT: When to maintain and when to replace.

Here are several factors to consider when assessing your compressed air equipment:
-How critical is your compressed air equipment? If equipment fails, what is the impact on production or safety.
-What is the age & history of your equipment.
Equipment histories will prove that most failures occur during infancy (newly installed or recently overhauled) and old-age (self-explanatory).
How many times has this equipment failed in the past?
-How much do you trust this equipment to perform as designed when scheduled to run?
-Do you need newer technology on your equipment?

Assessing the answers to these questions will help you determine when your older equipment needs fixing or replacing.  Preventive Maintenance will help your equipment last longer, run better, and save you loads of money in the long haul.

Key #4:  KNOWING YOUR EQUIPMENT WHAT IT NEEDS:
-Every piece of compressed air equipment should come with a set of MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS and some type of operations& parts manual.  Your operators should review the equipment information and keep it handy for future reference.  If you purchased used equipment and don’t have the manuals, contact your equipment distributor for a copy.
- Follow the maintenance guidelines for your equipment.

BASIC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST FOR
RECIPROCATING (PISTON) AIR COMPRESSORS:

Before performing any maintenance function, switch main disconnect switch to “off” position to assure no power is entering unit. “Lock Out” or “Tag Out” all sources of power. Be sure all air pressure in unit is relieved. Failure to do this may result in injury or equipment damage.

DAILY MAINTENANCE

1. Check oil level of both compressor and engine if so equipped. Add quality air compressor lubricant as required.
2. Drain moisture from tank by opening tank drain valve located in bottom of tank. Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG.
3. Stop, Look & Listen for any unusual noise, failure to compress, overheating, vibrations or belt slippage and correct before damage of a serious nature develops.
4. Turn off compressor at the end of each day’s operation. Turn off power supply.

WEEKLY MAINTENANCE
1. Clean dust and foreign matter from cylinder head, motor, fan blade, air lines, intercooler and tank.
2. Remove and clean intake air filters
WARNING
Do not exceed 15 PSIG nozzle pressure when cleaning element parts with compressed air. Do not direct compressed air against human skin. Serious injury could result. Never wash elements in fuel oil, gasoline or flammable solvent.

3. Check V-belts for tightness. The V-belts must be tight enough to transmit the necessary power to the
compressor. Adjust the V-belts as follows:
a. Remove bolts and guard to access compressor drive.
b. Loosen mounting hardware which secures motor to base. Slide motor within slots of base plate to desired position.
c. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for correct belt tension. Apply pressure with belt tension checker to one belt at midpoint span. Make further adjustments if necessary.
d. Check the alignment of pulleys. Adjust if necessary.
e. Tighten mounting hardware to secure motor on base.
f. Re-install guard and secure with bolts.

WARNING
Never operate unit without belt guard in place. Removal will expose rotating parts which can cause injury or equipment damage.

EVERY 90 DAYS OR 500 HOURS MAINTENANCE
1. Change crankcase oil. Use type and grade oil as specified.
2. Check entire system for air leakage around fittings, connections, and gaskets, using an ultrasonic leak detector or using soap solution and brush.
3. Tighten nuts and cap-screws as required.
4. Check and clean compressor valves, replace gasket valve asssembly when worn or damaged.

CAUTION
Valves must be reinstalled in original position. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are serviced.

5. Pull ring on all pressure relief valves to assure proper operation.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE NOTES:

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: The pressure relief valve is an automatic pop valve. Each valve is properly adjusted for the maximum pressure permitted by tank specifications and working pressure of the unit on which it is installed. If it should pop, it will be necessary to drain all the air out of the tank in order to reseat properly. Do not readjust.

TANK DRAIN VALVE: Drain valve is located at bottom of tank. Open drain valve daily to drain condensation.
Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG. The automatic tank drain equipped compressor requires draining manually once a week.

PRESSURE SWITCH: The pressure switch is automatic and will start compressor at low pressure and stop when the maximum pressure is reached. It is adjusted to start and stop compressor at the proper pressure for the unit on which it is installed. Do not readjust.

BELTS: Drive belts must be kept tight enough to prevent slipping. If belts slip or squeak, see V-belt maintenance in preceding section.

CAUTION
If belts are too tight, overload will be put on motor and motor bearings.

COMPRESSOR VALVES: If compressor fails to pump air or seems slow in filling up tank, disconnect unit from power source, drain air tank, and remove valves and clean thoroughly, using compressed air and a soft wire brush.
After cleaning exceptional care must be taken that all parts are replaced in exactly the same position and all joints must be tight or the compressor will not function properly.
When all valves are replaced, perform a timed pump-up test and check to see that it meets factory specifications.
Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are removed from pump.

 
Bottom Line:  One of the main keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system has been and still is “Preventive Maintenance.”

Tommy McGuire
http://www.articlesbase.com/business-articles/keys-to-maintaining-an-efficient-compressed-air-system-747908.html