Why are Green Bay defensive backs allowed to tackle receivers while the ball in the air? Isn’t that illegal?

For the rest of the teams, its called pass interference.

Relax, move on to week 2!

Where can I get an air band receiver?

Since transceivers are $200 plus are there air band receivers that are less expensive?
It’s a gift for a couple who live near an airport. They just want to hear the activity. No need to talk. They’re not pilots.

Just about ANY scanner will have the A/C band. I sold one on Craig’s List for $50. You should be able to get a used one for $20-30 (a table model), a hand held will cost a little more

what is the power require to run a 600 kg per sq cms pressure Air compressor?

The purpose is industrial.
what would be its ware & tare?

600 kg/cm^2 is roughly 8500 psi. There isn’t a compressor in the world that could produce that kind of pressure, let alone a system that could handle it.

In general terms though, in order to size a compressor, you need to know the SCFM. air compressor companies rate their compressors in terms of ACFM because the properties of air changes so much. The ACFM rating is basically the same as SCFM if the compressor was tested when the ambient conditions were standard conditions. For selecting a compressor, I consider them the same thing. Most standard compressors have max pressure ratings up to 125 psig or so. There are some booster compressors made for high pressure applications that will boost pressures up to around 300 psig.

As far as ware and tear, if a compressed air system is designed correctly, you can minimize the wear and tear. First thing to do is ensure a tank is in the system right after any dryers, ususally 1 gallon/4 SCFM. If the system has many points of use where there is a lot of diversity, another surge tank can be placed right after the compressor, around 1 gallon/ 1 SCFM.

The compressor only runs when the system pressure drops below a certain point, the demand of the compressed air will mainly determine how often the compressor will run, which is basically ware and tear.

For your system, I would imagine it would run indefinately until the motor burned up or the system exploded.

Power inverter question.?

I searched answers but I am still confused. All I know is 75 watt inverter plugged into cigarette lighter will not run my air compressor. So how many watts do I need? Compressor is 120 volts AC, 3.3. Amps. I saw Black and Decker inverters up to 750 Watts. Do I need that much? Wish I had studied better in physics. TY for any help.

You may not need 750 watts but you will need considerably more than 75 watts. Assuming that your air compressor offers a constant resistive load and 3.3 amps is its current draw, it will take
120 V * 3.3 A = 396 watts

In practice, the current rating will probably be for full load and may or may not represent the actual amount of current your compressor takes. The compressor will approach full load only when its air tank is near full pressure.

Reciprocating compressors also take their current in spurts, taking momentarily more power when the compressor is actually in its compression cycle and less when it is drawing more air into the system. If your compressor doesn’t have a flywheel or some other mechanical means of evening out this load, the current draw could vary wildly while the compressor is in operation.

Finally, the load a compressor puts on the line is usually not purely resistive but has an inductive component to it. This reduces the actual power below the theoretical maximum of Voltage * current but the inverter must still supply the full current. Furthermore, the inductive component may have an effect on the inverter’s capacity to deliver power.

With all these different effects are taken into account, the 400 watt estimate is just that – an estimate. The compressor may or may not work satisfactorily and at full capacity on such an inverter.

I want to purchase an air compressor what should I look for?

I would like to know what specs should I look for to run my industrial pneumatic speed sander its a 4560 Hutchins I only want to use for about two to three hours .I do some body work on weekends.

I agree that bigger is better when it comes to compressors. I’ve had a few smaller ones, like the ten gallon ones. They never were big enough to keep up with my air tools.

OH! One other thing, steer clear of any compressor that say "oilless". From my personal experience, the compressors that don’t use oil overheat and break down very quickly. I’ll never buy another compressor if I don’t see a dipstick to check the oil.

Can I use my air compressor and a spray gun for the following paint jobs?

All interior work:
I want to prime and latex paint some walls.
I also want to finish oil painting the basement cement floor.

The air compressor is an oiless 8 gallon 150 psi electric model
It easily powers an impact gun
has a regulator knob and two gauges.
The primer is the thickest of the liquids which I want to spray.

I got a HVLP Spray Gun
It has a 2.0 mm tip, All metal construction, and Brass Fan Nozzle with one quart dripless cup. Runs at 20 to 45 psi with 1/4 nps inlet. It has a Air Control, Spray Control, and Fluid Control for making adjustments.

Any advice is appreciated.

The HVLP is the way to go and I would keep the psi down to 30 or so to control the overspray. I also think that your 8 gallon tank is sufficient. It might work the compressor a little overtime because of the constaint drain of the sprayer, but for a one time deal I think will be fine.
I’d do it. Good luck.

How many watts does a 5,000 BTU 120V window unit air conditioner pull?

My air conditioner in my car isn’t working. I plan to get it fixed latter on, but for now, I have an AC inverter that can handle about 300 watts and 120 volts and I think I can come up with something to catch the water. So would it work or would the fan just come on and the compressor hum and blow the inverter?

it wont work. the inverter isnt big enough,but you can check by looking at the tag.second an ac removes heat from air. now where do you plan on exhausting the thing?if your just gonna throw it in the seat and run it, its going to reach around 130-160.see it absorbs the heat and moves it outside.now if your in the exhaust area, its only gonna recirc the air, while constantly adding more heat from the system.so its like blowing on a tea kettle trying to keep it boiling under med. heat.see it stands to reason, that the heat of electric load. plus the heat of compression,and heat transfer,will far outweigh the benefit of trying to remeove the heat from the cab.its kinda like continuing to trade in a vehicle you owe more on than its worth, sooner or later it will get to the point of tipping balance and not helping but hurting the situation.

Can I use my air compressor and a spray gun for the following paint jobs?

All interior work:
I want to prime and latex paint some walls.
I also want to finish oil painting the basement cement floor.

The air compressor is an oiless 8 gallon 150 psi electric model
It easily powers an impact gun
has a regulator knob and two gauges.
The primer is the thickest of the liquids which I want to spray.

I got a HVLP Spray Gun
It has a 2.0 mm tip, All metal construction, and Brass Fan Nozzle with one quart dripless cup. Runs at 20 to 45 psi with 1/4 nps inlet. It has a Air Control, Spray Control, and Fluid Control for making adjustments.

Any advice is appreciated.

The HVLP is the way to go and I would keep the psi down to 30 or so to control the overspray. I also think that your 8 gallon tank is sufficient. It might work the compressor a little overtime because of the constaint drain of the sprayer, but for a one time deal I think will be fine.
I’d do it. Good luck.

A Quick Consumer Safety Guide to Basic Power Tools

Throughout your life, your mom has probably told you more times than you’d care to count, “It’s better to be safe than sorry!” Well, your mom’s right, especially when it comes to using power tools and their attachments. Below you will find some quick tips to properly use power tools, all created with your personal safety in mind:

We’re going to start off our guide with a very basic philosophy- always wear the proper safety gear, including eyewear and hand protection. Goggles will keep your eyes safe and gloves will shield your hands from sparks, flying metal fragments, wood splinters and dust that can easily fly through the air while you’re working with any power tool. Your appearance should be the last thing on your mind, with safety being first. If you’re out trying to pick up a member of the opposite sex, please leave your power tools at home.

Our agenda now brings us to a few of the most common power tools on the market. We shall begin with the reciprocating saw, a very powerful hand-held tool used for dismantling entire structures and opening up walls. Keep them on while changing the breakable blades, as they get quite hot as they spin and can take a while to cool down. The 6″ to 12″ blades are incredibly sharp, so always wear the proper hand protection. Always hold this tool with both hands in a firm grip. Never, under any circumstances, attempt to use a broken blade to cut anything, no matter how simple the job seems; it’s a good idea to keep a few spare blades around when you plan on using this power tool.

While we’re on saws, let’s go over safely using a miter saw (sometimes referred to as a chop saw). The particular power saw is used for somewhat tight work and/or detailing thanks to its ability to make sharp, accurate cuts. The miter saw should always be used while it’s raised off of the ground due to the chips of wood that fall out from underneath the tool. If the tool isn’t raised, it will clog and eventually break. And as with any saw, check the blade guard to make sure that it’s functioning properly, and be sure to cut on a sturdy surface.

My personal favorite tool, the router, is the best when it comes to shaping and detailing your wood projects. You might want to check out the depth setting on your router on a piece of scrap wood or metal before working on your project, as you could easily ruin your handiwork. Remember to keep your gloves and goggles on, and start the tool at least 12″ away from your project and bring the tool’s spinning bit slowly into your project. You’ll be safe, and so will your project, when you put safety first.

Debbie Johnston
http://www.articlesbase.com/business-articles/a-quick-consumer-safety-guide-to-basic-power-tools-70074.html

A Quick Consumer Safety Guide to Basic Power Tools

Throughout your life, your mom has probably told you more times than you’d care to count, “It’s better to be safe than sorry!” Well, your mom’s right, especially when it comes to using power tools and their attachments. Below you will find some quick tips to properly use power tools, all created with your personal safety in mind:

We’re going to start off our guide with a very basic philosophy- always wear the proper safety gear, including eyewear and hand protection. Goggles will keep your eyes safe and gloves will shield your hands from sparks, flying metal fragments, wood splinters and dust that can easily fly through the air while you’re working with any power tool. Your appearance should be the last thing on your mind, with safety being first. If you’re out trying to pick up a member of the opposite sex, please leave your power tools at home.

Our agenda now brings us to a few of the most common power tools on the market. We shall begin with the reciprocating saw, a very powerful hand-held tool used for dismantling entire structures and opening up walls. Keep them on while changing the breakable blades, as they get quite hot as they spin and can take a while to cool down. The 6″ to 12″ blades are incredibly sharp, so always wear the proper hand protection. Always hold this tool with both hands in a firm grip. Never, under any circumstances, attempt to use a broken blade to cut anything, no matter how simple the job seems; it’s a good idea to keep a few spare blades around when you plan on using this power tool.

While we’re on saws, let’s go over safely using a miter saw (sometimes referred to as a chop saw). The particular power saw is used for somewhat tight work and/or detailing thanks to its ability to make sharp, accurate cuts. The miter saw should always be used while it’s raised off of the ground due to the chips of wood that fall out from underneath the tool. If the tool isn’t raised, it will clog and eventually break. And as with any saw, check the blade guard to make sure that it’s functioning properly, and be sure to cut on a sturdy surface.

My personal favorite tool, the router, is the best when it comes to shaping and detailing your wood projects. You might want to check out the depth setting on your router on a piece of scrap wood or metal before working on your project, as you could easily ruin your handiwork. Remember to keep your gloves and goggles on, and start the tool at least 12″ away from your project and bring the tool’s spinning bit slowly into your project. You’ll be safe, and so will your project, when you put safety first.

Debbie Johnston
http://www.articlesbase.com/business-articles/a-quick-consumer-safety-guide-to-basic-power-tools-70074.html